After using a Fujifilm X-T5 camera and an Opteka 6.5mm circular fisheye lens from Amazon to shoot Scenes 1-3 with the lens pointed straight up at the zenith, the camera/lens rig was relocated to the edge of the parking garage for a fisheye view of both the sky above and Richmond Highway below. Two more photo sets were captured.
Scene 4
The following photo is the first image in a time series of 344 images. The JPG photo is shown "as is," that is straight out of the camera without post-processing. As you can see the sky is overexposed, especially noticeable in the clouds.
| 6.5mm APS-C | f/8?+ | 1/250 s | ISO 200 | 7728 x 5152 pixels |
The next photo is a post-processed .raf file -- Fujifilm's proprietary RAW image format -- exported as a JPG. Notice I was able to recover some of the detail in the clouds that was lost in the overexposed photo. So what are the takeaways? First, try to get the exposure right in-camera. Failing that, sometimes it's worth the time and effort to post-process the RAW files before rendering time lapse video.
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| 6.5mm APS-C | f/8?+ | 1/250 s | ISO 200 | 7728 x 5152 pixels |
As a sidebar let's briefly discuss exposure for all sky photography.
The Opteka 6.5mm circular fisheye lens doesn't feature filter threads because the front lens element is so bulbous you can't use filters with the lens (e.g., circular polarizing filter, neutral density filter, etc.). So how can you set exposure to avoid blown highlights?
Remember the exposure triangle? Lower ISO equals less light sensitivity; smaller aperture (higher f/number) means less light enters the lens; and faster shutter speed means less light enters the lens.
I'm already using a low ISO. I don't want to reduce the aperture since f/8 seems to be widely regarded as the "sweet spot" for this lens. So I recommend turning on "blinkies" and increasing the shutter speed until the blinkies disappear. Blown highlights cannot be recovered. On the other hand, it's usually possible to recover detail from shadows.
The following ProRes video was created using Apple "QuickTime Player." This video was made using the "as is" JPG photos with blown highlights.
25 August 2026 | 2:07 PM - 2:13 PM EDT | Fairfax County, Virginia USA
344 photos at 1 s interval
Notice the interval between photos was set for 1 second in order to capture the vehicle traffic along Richmond Highway (U.S. Route 1). The Fujifilm X-T5 was able to save FINE+RAW files to a memory card without a problem.
The next video was created using Apple "QuickTime Player" and edited using Apple "Photos."
25 August 2026 | 2:07 PM - 2:13 PM EDT | Fairfax County, Virginia USA
344 photos at 1 s interval
Scene 5
The following photo is the first image in a time series of 59 images. The JPG photo is shown "as is," that is straight out of the camera without post-processing. As you can see, the sky is exposed properly, preserving detail in the clouds.
| 6.5mm APS-C | f/8?+ | 1/1,000 s | ISO 200 | 7728 x 5152 pixels |
I started recording another time lapse.
25 August 2026 | 2:14 PM - 2:15 PM EDT | Fairfax County, Virginia USA
59 photos at 1 s interval
The memory card was full soon after the time lapse began. I knew there was only one memory card in my Fujifilm X-T5, but I was in a rush to get to the roof so I took a chance that one card would be sufficient. I didn't realize the 64 GB memory card would fill so quickly due to the HUGE file size of photos captured by the X-T5 using the following settings: IMAGE SIZE = L 3:2 7728 x 5152 40 M; IMAGE QUALITY = FINE+RAW; RAW RECORDING = LOSSLESS COMPRESSED.
I'm planning to test using an IMAGE SIZE of M 3:2 5472 x 3648 (20M). That's comparable to an IMAGE SIZE of L 3:2 6240 x 4160 (26M) using my Fujifilm X-T3.
Tech Tips
The Opteka User Manual includes the following information in the section entitled "Focusing Aides."
Many compatible cameras provide aides for manual focus precision. The two most common aides are Focus Peaking, and/or a Focus Magnifier. Be sure to consult your camera's user manual for assistance with configuring these features. Source Credit: Opteka 6.5mm f/2.0 HD Multi-Coated Lens User Manual, p. 6.
In my experience "focus peaking" and "focus magnifier (Focus Check)" are easier to use under controlled conditions such as a photo studio. My next blog post will feature a discussion of some "hacks" for focusing that I use when shooting in the field.
Related Resources
- Opteka 6.5mm circular fisheye lens - first field test - a blog post by Walter Sanford
- What's wrong with this picture? - another blog post by Walter Sanford
- Posts on Walter Sanford's Blog with the label "all sky."
- Fujifilm X-T5 Owner's Manual
Copyright © 2026 by Walter Sanford. All rights reserved.












